Alessandro Michele marks Gucci’s one centesimal anniversary by bringing logomania to a startling new stage.
When Alessandro Michele announced he’d be trailing away from the standard style calendar to indicate Gucci in bi-annual seasonless collections, he was doing what few had already carried out. Little did we all know, the Italian style maestro was winding up for extra together with his Gucci Aria assortment.
The gathering launched this morning as a movie consists of the outcomes of what Michele calls a “hacking lab” — the goal being one other luxurious pressure within the secure of Kering manufacturers: Balenciaga. The time period “hacking” makes it clear this was not a collaboration, the place each events present consent. This was a daring incursion into the world presided over by one other designer: Demna Gvasalia.
Named Aria — which is outlined as a solo efficiency in an opera — the gathering was extra of a dance with comfortable and arduous in excellent concord. Or maybe Michele was suggesting that he would create an aria, by mixing two entities into one. Fits are marked with the names of each manufacturers within the slanted fashion of Balenciaga. There’s an unmissable Gucci motif takeover of the Balenciaga Hourglass sling bag. Iced, cuban hyperlink necklaces have charms that spell out each style homes’ names (observe the sneaky changing of the “g” in Balenciaga with Gucci’s notorious double Gs). And there’s a brand new tackle the Gucci brand belt with a single G in a font much like Balenciaga’s “B” buckle.
Regardless of the saturation of labelling, Michele has captured in the present day’s obsession with logomania in a manner no different artist has, and maybe kickstarted a complete new enterprise technique: excessive style fusions. And as collector’s gadgets, the Aria items might skyrocket in worth if this seems to be a one-time factor.
The setting for the film, by Michele and Floria Sigismondi (who grew up in Hamilton, ON) is the Savoy Club, a reference to the London hotel the place founder Guccio Gucci labored and the place the flowery baggage of the friends left a deep impression. Fashions walked an extended hallway lined with strobe and stage lights to the beat of a hip-hop setlist sprinkled with Gucci references. Horsey motifs included harness-like corsets overtop tailor-made attire and blouses. A studded crop prime with Balenciaga-approved shoulders was paired with driving boots and a helmet. Michele’s style for glitter got here in a gathered-waist gown, paying homage to flowing water, accessorized with a yellow stone-encrusted coronary heart (the organ, not the Valentine image).
The movie closes with Vitalic and David Shaw’s Ready for the Stars taking part in whereas fashions caress one another in a fairytale panorama. This fashion-filled forest is a tucked away secret — a breath of recent air. Simply what the Aria assortment and present panned out to be. And as lush greens and majestic white horses, bunnies and birds frolic to the lyrics “What the long run holds, ready for the celebrities to align,” the previous, current and future all tie collectively. Gucci is celebrating its one centesimal anniversary this yr, and whereas its historical past can’t be contained in a single efficiency, this milestone second marks the centenary in an progressive manner. It additionally stresses that nothing can final with out change.